TOSCANA 2011 - It’s a Wrap!!!

ARRIVADERCI TOSCANA, WE'RE GONNA MISS YOU!

And so... Dear Hearts, TOSCANA 2011 comes to an end.

As Wacky American Tourist adventures go, this one was 

OUTSTANDING!!!

We'll start the traditional Wrap-Up with the the most important element of Uncle Chuck's 6 P's:

[Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance]

"Preparation".

If you're Really... Really... Really nervous about traveling on your own [then  you probably shouldn't]

Otherwise...you don’t need a tour operator or travel agent if you're even slightly internet savvy, everything we booked or did was easily found there.

-Expedia.com can book most of your lodging [we found it the most functional rather than Orbitz, Hotels.com etc].  Since Venere.com is the Italian arm they all book through it too advantages. We usually book Best Western in Italy [they are quite nice throughout Europe] but they just weren't any near where we wanted to be this time or withing our budget so Expedia got it done.

-Expedia is good for comparing all the flight options you have as well as Trip Advisor’s flight search service which offers good comparisons and searches every possible flight combination including several Expedia ignores.  It also tracks last minute bargains and deals.

-Trip Advisor is one of the most invaluable tools you can use for great info on just about any destination, hotel, flight, tours, restaurants, etc, and the traveler’s reviews and comments give great insight for making smart choices.

-Since our flight was booked using Visa Rewards points it was necessary to understand the Card issuers Travel Service website and options.  Once we learned the tricks, this saved us $1000.

- We prefer Avis for our self directed ground transportation in Europe... always a clean dependable ride and always  what is promised [the last 2 shots with Hertz and Enterprise were less than satisfactory] just don’t get a Ford Focus 5 speed diesel Rollerskate! Demand a Renault Migane, Fiat or for a little more an Alfa Romeo. We actually used an AARP coupon code for a cheaper rate than our Avis Preferred Code this time- saved $100.  I guess being an old fart Does have it's Perks!

-Google maps can get you turn by turn directions that you can print out - sometimes a bit anal [even if your navigationally challenged co-pilot cant understand them] but you may want to take a GPS along just in case, along with a couple of good maps.  While infrequent road signange can be a bit challanging, driving in Italy isn't as hard as we may have made it sound, and besides, you're there for the scenery anyway so just relax and enjoy the ride.

-Oh...and for you Smart Phone Phanatics that plan to use Google Maps to navigate - better to first see if your phone and carrier work in Europe.  [Verizon didn't recently for a friend]  Then expect a hefty data plan bill on your return.  International roaming is a BITCH. Call and get the at&t World Traveler plans for calls [$5.99] - [we had planed to buy a "TIM or Vodaphone" GSM-SIM card for our spare phone for calls but found the at&t World Traveler plan was comparable],  Then get an International Data Plan and use it sparingly.  Maps uses a ton of data on just one download.  Same for your "unlimited Text Plan" -it doesn't transfer overseas.  Book the Global Messaging 50 or 200 plan if you plan on texting lots photos to your BFF of  "Oh So Cute 'Carlo' in St Marks Square" .

-If you’re flying to Italy, there’s only one way. ALITALIA.  The overall service and ambiance is much better than the others [not to mention the free wine], and while non-stop costs a little more than connections, the comfort and convenience for a 9.5 hour flight is worth it.  From Miami you go non-stop to Rome or Milan.   It all depends on  your agenda, however, MIA-MXP [Milan Malpensa] uses the newer aircraft A300's [Malpensa is Alitalia’s main hub] while the older Boeing's go MIA-FCO [Roma Fiumicino].  Trains from Malpensa are right downstairs in the terminal but you will need to change at Milano Centrale to get anywhere else. If your not lugging lots of bags, not too bad.   just make sure to take the Milano Centrale train and not the Malpensa Express that only goes to Cardona Stazione downtown.  In Rome you need to take the Leonardo Express to Roma Termini to connect elsewhere including a connection to Civitavecchia for a Cruise. [Cheaper than a limo or cab-that’s another story-for another time]

-We flew into Rome and connected to Venice as we were leery of lugging bags through multiple connections in Milan for a train to Venice… and of course there's  that Bridge of 100 Steps from the Venice train station to Piazzale Roma, soooo…  But next time we'll fly in and out of Milan for just about any connection in Europe.

That being said… if you’re the least bit nervous about what, where and how… go ahead and use a Travel Agent.  There are plenty out there that do a fine job.  IF you do, it pays to use one located in the country that you’re traveling to.  They have more insight and expertise and can be more responsive in country in the event of issues.  This is what we did for some tours and hotels in NOWAT ESPANIA-2002 and it paid off marvelously.  Even though we  arranged our car and most of our own lodging in the Parador’s, the agency laid out a good trip plan and arranged most of our walking tours. [Toledo was Incredible]

Tours in the individual cities were also booked using online research.  Just type in “Walking Tour of XYZ” and you'll get a ton of websites to choose from, then qualify them through emails to get a feel of their cordiality.  We shy away from the major organized groups – Viatour, Trafalgar, Parillo, etc, only because it usually involves large groups, with lots of get on and off the bus stuff .  We prefer to deal  with the local guides that will move at our pace [which is often very fast] and we like the one-on-one treatment we get.  In most of Europe, especially Italy and Spain, the guides must be trained and licensed and all charge a pretty standard fee.  In Italy it is currently +/- $60 Euro per hour.  We did however use Viatour in Milan, primarily to get the Last Supper tickets, but otherwise we'll recap below by city, the Guides or Agencies we used.

And then there are the Rick Steve’s audio tours http://www.ricksteves.com/news/audio-tours.htm mighty handy and very informative.  We used it for Venice and Florence, and he also has complimenting maps to go along with the audios.  If you download to an MP3 player, or your iPhone, it will give you visual prompts.  It made Ufizzi much more palatable, as well as the Grand Canal in Venice and St Marks Square/Basilica etc.  

Go Ahead...Drink the water.  For the most part restaurants, bars and hotels will offer bottled water, Naturale, or Frizzante -at a charge of course, along with a charge for the partially stale bread the quickly place on the table [the covert]. and you can brush you teeth with the tap water in the hotels… but if you rather play it safe as we do, find a SuperMercato and buy either a case of pint bottles and keep in the car or as we do, pick up a 6 or 8 pack of 1.5 litre bottles [much cheaper in the long run] and just refill a couple of pint bottles to carry.  Remember, in Venice, Rome and most major cities, public water fountains are all over, with fresh mountain water to refill you bottle from [see the note on this in Venice].

Dragon Lady says: Save the Environment - REFILL Your Plastic Bottles PLEASE!

Here’s our final take - stop by stop, with lodging, guides and tour details.   Read the blog for details on restaurants etc. [go ahead... ya got nothing better to do this week - I'll have it in top down order shortly]

If you do just one thing in Venice, Book Nadia Danesin info@friendinvenice.com   for a walking tour, that should take care of it all.  She'll walk you real good if you let her.  Aside from what she’ll show you, she'll also tell you what you can do without her which is a lot, and you'll save a lot too.  Then use the Rick Steves Audios for the Grand  Canal,  St Marks, Frari Church [which we missed] and just enjoy the walk.

Venice proper is crowded and the hotels are pricey, stay on Lido.  A lovely 30 minute vaporetto ride, or less depending on where you get on and off, and the pace is much more relaxed.  Hotel Cristallo was just fine, [Booked through Expedia] spacious room and bath, nice breakfast and warm people. It’s a short haul right up the street from the Vaporetto stop and when your hauling luggage, it's easier that dragging bags up and down the steps of most bridges in Venice. The club across the street gets a bit lively but shuts down by midnight.

Speaking of Vaporetto's - Buy 48 or 72 hour vaporetto/bus passes as well as airport transfers, and download maps and schedules online at Venice Connected  you can save up to 20%, its the easiest way to get around.  After getting them at either the Airport ACTV kiosk or one of the ACTV vending machines scattered all around,  just swipe your card at the dockside MOBI reader and hop on-hop off. Just don't lose it like Chucky did.

Murano is a nice hop across the lagoon on a special vaporetto route from Ple. Roma or the Train Station and if you get off at the right stop you can pop into one of the many Glass Factories and watch this ancient art in progress.  Otherwise its pleasant walk around one large tchotchke shop after another... it ain't that much cheaper here than in town.

Lake Garda was booked as a rest stop for Verona the next day [she just had to do the Casa Giulietta thing] I tried to book  the hotel on Expedia but the page froze and wound up booking Hotel Aurora 3 times. The nice owner noticed it in his booking report, sent us a note about it, we cancelled using Venere.com [Expedia’s Italian agent] and booked with the owner direct.  Room a bit small, but clean, and the Balcony on the Lake was priceless.  The side trip to Sirmione was fun, even if Dragon Lady stalled before reaching the top parapet. 

Verona, was a self guided walkabout, you can get all you need to know online and pick up a cheap map along the way.  If Driving, the parking garage at Piazza Isolo http://g.co/maps/52neq is not that hard to find from the Autostrada and is a short walk from central Verona and all the attractions. If we  had more time, we might have booked a walking tour.  As it was, we got in the main sights and... a lot of walking.

Lucca’s tour was booked with TurisLucca but you can book Tiziana Camaiori directly tizianacama@hotmail.com

Cell: 011+39 347 0647868. She was Marvelous [even if we were late]  Rent a bike and it’s a lot easier to get around the wall and much of Lucca.

Viareggio, Tuscany's Beach, was a side trip from Lucca, ostensibly to dine at Da Giorgio, which if you read that episode you'll know why we didn’t.  For the most part, Viareggio is nice, but not a lot there except the beach.

Siena is a Must stop and Costanza Riccardi is a definite Must for a guide. Cell 011+39 333 3257717  info@sienawalkingtours.com  She is a very cordial, passionate and a cute Sienese.  Even though we had to rush off to Castello Verrazzano, her tour was most informative and she was a pure delight.

We could make a whole posting about Firenze, wait... we did already, so better if you just go back to that episode and digest it.

The same goes for the Wineries,

Verrazzano winetour@verrazzano.com

Capezzana serena@capezzana.it  also the elusive

Fattoria Artimino fattoria@artimino.com.

And of course there's the 150 year old Ristorante Il Falcone, they Really do it RIGHT!

Just re-hash the episodes about each and drop me a note for more info later.

Lerici is also another Must, if for no other reason than a boat ride to the Cinque Terre, unless you prefer to hike the Sentiero Azzurro [Light Blue Trail] instead.  Or  perhaps just a trip to Portovenere for a couple of hours may solve it for you, but if nothing else, book a balcony at the Hotel Florida for a sunset wine and cheese party of your own… it doesn’t get any more romantic than that.  [As the couple on the adjoining balcony agreed] Also booked via Expedia.

Milan is so rich with culture, fashion, tradition etc, it really needed 2-3 days not the rushed shot we took at it.  And of course the Last Supper is not to be missed as is the Duomo etc. Lorella Baroncelli Lorella.baroncelli@libero.it  is the BEST, but I think she's committed to large groups for Zani Viaggi.

If you're flying in and out of Milan, you could do worse than the Sheraton Malpensa.  We got a Friends and Family rate through connections but still, it's just plain convenient for flying in and out with handy trains to downtown right outside the front door and easy access when driving [the car rentals kiosks are on the same floor]. Hopefully they will have corrected all their problems by then.  

And of course there’s Il Pianaccio, I said it all in the episode of 10.1 Saturday,  so read it again, these people are JUST PLAIN FABULOUS!

Since this adventure was to celebrate our 25^th anniversary, we had discussed finding a spot to renew our vows, perhaps on the terrace of Il Pianaccio, and Chef Alessio had actually queried the local mayor about conducting the ceremony, but after much thought, we decided that it really needs to be done on the correct day in December, so that got nixed.  Stay tuned for news of THAT party later this year.

And so it goes Dear Hearts…or gone too soon… this Tuscan thing… one of our most memorable trips [1000 miles by car -15% being girare-U’s] where we met some Fabulous people, ate some Marvelous food, Drank some Incredible wine and had the time of our lives.
And for those that are begging for more pictures, we''ll have many more up on the PicassaWeb Slide Show as soon as we can finish sorting all 3,155.  Patience... Please.

Thanks for Traveling with the Wacky American Tourist and the Ever-Lovely yet still navigationally challenged Dragon Lady, We hope you enjoyed it as much as we did... And Boy DID WE!!!

Last -but not least - we close with our traditional NOWAT Benediction to you:

Our Treasured Family, Friends and Innocent Bystanders:

Work like you don’t need the money.
Love like you’ve never been hurt.
Dance like nobody’s watching.
And during life's darkest moments remember the 
4 most important words in any language:
"This Too Shall Pass!"

But Hey… fret not…our adventures are far from over!  Just wait till you see what we have planned next… 'though you may want to pack something warm - then again…

Ciao 4 Now

Uncle Chuck & The So Glad you joined our Tuscan Adventure, 

Dragon Lady

Still Craving Fine Wine, Sharp Cheese & Great Crusty Bread